France: Medieval Sarlat
October 2007, by Tom
One of the main reasons for breaking our Lyon to Bordeaux journey into two was to explore a few of the castles the Limousin region had to offer. Unfortunately, what we didn't realise was that the uber castles were about 100 kilometers south of Limoges (where we were staying) and in a separate region called "the Dordogne". Unperturbed by the lack of public transport to the Dordogne region in our castle quest, we decided to rent a car and zoom south (a horse and cart would have been more appropriate, however).
The Dodogne region is amazing. Thin, winding roads snake their way though tiny, aged villages. From the walled fortified village of Domme, poised high up on a hill, to the valley hugging medieval town of Sarlat-La-Caneda (Sarlat) - where we ended up spending two nights and the majority of our time.
Sarlat is supposedly one of the most attractive medieval towns in France. Had I seen other medieval towns to compare it with, I'm sure I would agree. It felt like we were in a movie - and there were dragons, wizards and knights on great steeds - pages, peasants and archers in watch towers. The town was magnificently restored to it's former glory in the 60's and 70's - and now accurately reflects the look and feel of when it was developed - from the 8th through to the 18th centuries.
We spent hours just wandering through it's cobblestone corridors, exploring the town on foot. One of it's churches - with massive, 20 meter high doors, was a market by day - selling all the local goodies from walnuts to confit de canard (duck) to fois gras (duck liver). Some of which we sampled on our nights out - confit de canard and sliced potatoes cooked in goose fat (for which the name of escapes me) with a chestnut mousse for desert the first night, then crepes the second. At night time, the town transforms. The labyrinth of cobblestone becomes dimly lit with gas powered lanterns - hung on every street corner. The effect was magical. The second night, this effect was increased due to a haze of wood fires (or perhaps a house fire), which left a smokey scent on our clothes.
Around Sarlat, we managed to fit in a few pieces of what the region has to offer.
A morning was spent at the Marqueyssac Jardin, an amazing private estate which was restored to it's original self ten years ago. It sits on top of a spur overlooking the entire Dordogne Valley. The gardens were lovingly crafted during the 19th century by some dude who must have loved "boxwood" hedges. They were everywhere. All shapes and sizes. They lined the paths through the estate. He even had a small chapel built and a number of other small stone huts - created as restings spots while he wandered through his gardens. Amazing views were found at various points throughout the garden - at one, "le Belvedere", 800 meters from the chateau, 192 meters above the river unveiled an exceptional panoramic view of the whole Dordogne valley.
Next up was a castle! Finally, after great anticipation we made it to Chateau de Castlenaud. Re-built in the 13th century, after the previous Chateau was destroyed, Castlenaud was created with one main objective - protection of those within. During the 13th and 14th centuries, however, the 100 year war broke out between the French and the English and the castle changed hands at least 7 times - between warring English and French supporters.
It's construction was made in such a way as to make use of the weaponry of the time. Small holes were left in the meter thick walls where crossbows - and later on - canons and other artillery could be fired through. Portholes from above were created to let archers and crossbows reign down on those below. They sure would have been some interesting times. Inside the castle were many medieval armory on display - from the full bodied metal suit of a knight to the spiked mace designed to penetrate it.
After getting a castle out of our system, we decided to slowly return to Sarlat. We stopped off at another Chateau - "Fort Regionac" - this one built into the side of a cliff. How they kept it warm, I don't know - it was freezing - and they had the fires going! Still, it was an interesting visit - they really made use of the cliff and rock face by burrowing into it and using it for shelter and protection. They also had a museum of torture. Lets just say that this was a disturbing array of devices used to inflict pain and suffering and often death on the unfortunate who happened to get caught up in the times. We didn't last long in this museum.
The following morning, it was a slow ride back to Limoges for one more night before an early morning train to Bordeaux - the wine capital of the world!! (At least that was the idea ....... damn train strikes!).
T
The Dodogne region is amazing. Thin, winding roads snake their way though tiny, aged villages. From the walled fortified village of Domme, poised high up on a hill, to the valley hugging medieval town of Sarlat-La-Caneda (Sarlat) - where we ended up spending two nights and the majority of our time.
Sarlat is supposedly one of the most attractive medieval towns in France. Had I seen other medieval towns to compare it with, I'm sure I would agree. It felt like we were in a movie - and there were dragons, wizards and knights on great steeds - pages, peasants and archers in watch towers. The town was magnificently restored to it's former glory in the 60's and 70's - and now accurately reflects the look and feel of when it was developed - from the 8th through to the 18th centuries.
We spent hours just wandering through it's cobblestone corridors, exploring the town on foot. One of it's churches - with massive, 20 meter high doors, was a market by day - selling all the local goodies from walnuts to confit de canard (duck) to fois gras (duck liver). Some of which we sampled on our nights out - confit de canard and sliced potatoes cooked in goose fat (for which the name of escapes me) with a chestnut mousse for desert the first night, then crepes the second. At night time, the town transforms. The labyrinth of cobblestone becomes dimly lit with gas powered lanterns - hung on every street corner. The effect was magical. The second night, this effect was increased due to a haze of wood fires (or perhaps a house fire), which left a smokey scent on our clothes.
Around Sarlat, we managed to fit in a few pieces of what the region has to offer.
A morning was spent at the Marqueyssac Jardin, an amazing private estate which was restored to it's original self ten years ago. It sits on top of a spur overlooking the entire Dordogne Valley. The gardens were lovingly crafted during the 19th century by some dude who must have loved "boxwood" hedges. They were everywhere. All shapes and sizes. They lined the paths through the estate. He even had a small chapel built and a number of other small stone huts - created as restings spots while he wandered through his gardens. Amazing views were found at various points throughout the garden - at one, "le Belvedere", 800 meters from the chateau, 192 meters above the river unveiled an exceptional panoramic view of the whole Dordogne valley.
Next up was a castle! Finally, after great anticipation we made it to Chateau de Castlenaud. Re-built in the 13th century, after the previous Chateau was destroyed, Castlenaud was created with one main objective - protection of those within. During the 13th and 14th centuries, however, the 100 year war broke out between the French and the English and the castle changed hands at least 7 times - between warring English and French supporters.
It's construction was made in such a way as to make use of the weaponry of the time. Small holes were left in the meter thick walls where crossbows - and later on - canons and other artillery could be fired through. Portholes from above were created to let archers and crossbows reign down on those below. They sure would have been some interesting times. Inside the castle were many medieval armory on display - from the full bodied metal suit of a knight to the spiked mace designed to penetrate it.
After getting a castle out of our system, we decided to slowly return to Sarlat. We stopped off at another Chateau - "Fort Regionac" - this one built into the side of a cliff. How they kept it warm, I don't know - it was freezing - and they had the fires going! Still, it was an interesting visit - they really made use of the cliff and rock face by burrowing into it and using it for shelter and protection. They also had a museum of torture. Lets just say that this was a disturbing array of devices used to inflict pain and suffering and often death on the unfortunate who happened to get caught up in the times. We didn't last long in this museum.
The following morning, it was a slow ride back to Limoges for one more night before an early morning train to Bordeaux - the wine capital of the world!! (At least that was the idea ....... damn train strikes!).
T
An old convent now a school
Shadows from the creatures of the night
Cepes, which go lovely with an omelette
The window in Poets hut
Boxwood hedges at their best
The view from Castelnaud
Tom taking a rest
Tuesday food market
