France: Dijon moutarde

September 2007, by Gini

When looking over the map of France, we spotted Dijon. Now could that be the same Dijon as in Dijon mustard? hmmm It set the cogs in motion and before we knew it we were on our way to the little town of mustard oh I mean Dijon. The train ride took around two hours with lots of interesting scenery along the way and of course the iPod comes in handy at times like these.

First thing was first we visited the Tourist office to get the freebie map and bought 'The Owl Trail' guide which takes you all around the inner city by following a golden arrow stamped with a owl on the ground. Still not sure why an owl but I guess the icon works for them and we did really enjoy following owlie as we came to know him. Owlie first showed us Jardin Darcy created in 1880 and was Dijon's first public garden. It also had a BIG polar bear at the entrance (not a real one) marking a tribute to the famous animal sculptor, François Pompon. The trail took us through a number of beautiful architectural structures dating around the 19th Century.

The smell of food and the rumblings in our tummies led our through the Covered Markets full of french food at its freshest. You have to admire the way the french still shop the way they did 100 years or more ago. We bluffed our way through ordering two baguettes and sat outside the front of Notre Dame which was built in the 13th Century and marks the Medieval era with lots of gargoyles decorating the front entrance. The baguettes weren't much to speak of but the Citron Tarte was something else. I am declaring that as my favourite dessert for the month. The church was enchanting inside with the high skeleton like arches down the centre and who wouldn't marvel at the strain glass windows which always capsulate me every time.

After stumbling around in the BRIGHT light after the dark church I found an old friend. Cop Copine a french clothing label which I used to sell at Victoire back in Wellington back in my University days. Note to myself I must find an outlet in Lyon, credit card I'm so sorry. Anywho... after that little find (which Tom had no idea about and possibly thought I was mad) we found Owlie again but it was touch and go for a little while but the main thing was we were on track again!

Down the side of the Notre Dame (and no it isn't the famous one in Paris, they just seem to name all their churches with that in the title somewhere) we found the lucky Owl and I'm thinking that is where Owlie comes from! We did the tourist thing and gave Owl a nice little rub and made a wish, who knows!

While walking down some of Dijon's narrow streets you really get the sense of history, there are still a lot of the 12th Century houses still standing even despite Dijon being invaded by the Prussian army in 1870 during the Franco-Prussian War. So you get to see the houses with the wooden frames showing on the outside, the tiny windows, the wood craft detail and the crazy leans they have got going on. Through many other streets displays lots of different eras through the architecture, one being the Échauguette Berbis, the watchtower as they curve around a corner giving you the best view point from the building.

Owlie sort of disappeared into the water feature so we took it as a sign that we too shall like refreshments not from the fountain of course. Place de la Libération is a semicircular square with water features and lots of cafes which seemed like a good spot. It is also situated in front of the Palais des Ducs which was once the palace for the Dukes of Burgundy. Interestingly we discovered my name is famous! well only for a drink but still! it put a little skip in my walk until we started to climb the stairs to the top of Tour Philippe le Bon and that would stop anyone skipping full stop. But well worth the climb (twice over as we got confused about the rules heheeheeh) the view is fantastic and so quiet up there.

Late in the afternoon we checked out their Saturday street market with all sorts like table loads of Bonbons yum! and lots of mustard stores with moutarde on tap who would have thought! I still can't get over they have stores full of just mustard. After a days worth of walking we settled for a few cool drinks in a bar before heading off for dinner at Le Verdi, which had great food but the coffee was just wrong.

The next day started with a shower in the wardrobe literally and praying the shower basin wouldn't fall through the floor but after that we finished off the churches we missed from the trail the day before, I think they liked churches as there was a lot in the small town radius. After discovering that Sunday isn't really a day to go shopping as all the shops were closed we hung in the Botanical Jardin before heading home on the train.

And now we know where Dijon a cute little moutarde town is.

G
Jardin

Jardin

The start of Autumn

The start of Autumn

I can't begin to describe how delicious this is!

I can't begin to describe how delicious this is!

So that is how they built houses back when it was black and white

So that is how they built houses back when it was black and white

The pretty patterns

The pretty patterns

Water so thirsty

Water so thirsty

More bonbons, I don't think you ever grow out of them, do you?

More bonbons, I don't think you ever grow out of them, do you?

It was very quiet, also the old Palace

It was very quiet, also the old Palace

More of the Palace from the tower

More of the Palace from the tower

Are they saucers on the roof?

Are they saucers on the roof?

Our edible souvenir - Moutarde

Our edible souvenir - Moutarde