Green, Raw, Untamable Land of Ire

May 2010, by Gini

The England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales - inside outside puppies dog tail (elastics anyone?) Journey continues...

Tuesday: After a mad 2am ferry crossing from Holyhead, Wales to Dublin, Ireland, we reached land at 5am after a disrupted nights sleep along the many seat benches on the 'love' boat ferry - still flasher than the Inter islander I'm afraid to say. The drive to Kilkenny from the ports of Dublin were done mostly in and out of sleep. We were in need of a few hours shuteye in our campsite before Kilkenny was discovered.

After a quick bike ride into the cute little town, we quickly came across the amazing Kilkenny Castle, which was sold in the 1950s for only 20 pounds! A bargain! Because the long standing Butler family could no longer afford the monstrous castle. Tom also popped up the top of an unusual tower, detached from the church to take in all of Kilkenny. We managed a local brewed beer at a local pub, Smithwick - with a silent 'w -' before the day was out.

Wednesday: Our next stop on our Ireland tour was Cork for a lovely lunch in the 'English Meat Market' cafe which overlooked the busy markets and a walk up into the Shandon area to see the Butter Museum and on the way even spotted a lonely seal swimming up the river? Very odd?! We walked passed lots of lovely colourful two story houses, which are scattered throughout the city belt.

Our destination for the day was Kinsale on the South coast. A very cute little fishing village, with amazing seafood and a lot of varies of Po-tat-oes (Irish accent). We got a bit lost trying to find our campsite and pulled up next to a fellow camper, who planted the idea of 'Wild Camping' - we were shocked but quickly embraced it - if the old Irishman can do it - so can we! We had the most expensive Fish and Chips... and Gratin Potatoes (because chips isn't enough potato for one meal!) Not to mention the lovely Plaice & Haddock fish too. With our tum tums full we took to the wild camping and found our own beach for the night.

Thursday: The morning couldn't have been better with blue skies, sea breeze and a great strong filter coffee in ones hand. We packed Smurfy up within minutes and made our way in the direction of the Ring of Kerry. We followed Tomtom's camping spots and found a lovely campsite with individual unique sites right on the seafront. We thought instead of driving the Ring of Kerry on a hot day, we would cycle the most scenic part between Catherdaniel and Waterville towns. 11km one way - mostly downhill on the way there - bloody fun actually! The only minor downfall, when going down, one must come up! Not before Tom had a beer and I had an ice cream on the seafront.
The 11km back was purely uphill, we made it - some training for Wellie's hills I expect! We finished the day cooking on our little gas hobs sausages and salad!

Friday: Killarney National Park and Ross Castle were next on the itinerary, we wandered on a loop walk of a small part of the park, even spotted a few red deer! They really do look like Bambi! & friends. Even watched a bride lose her veil in the winds as she climbed the castle steps - the things we do for photographs! We managed to stop off at Inch beach for a spot of lunch in Smurfy as we watched people brave the water, wind buggy and donut their cars on the huge beach. 

The drive over Connor's Pass was very green and we stopped on the top ridge so we could look out over Dingle Peninsula on one side - our new favourite name for our 'future' dog 'here Dingle, good Dingle'. And Mt Brandon to the West. It was all very dramatic with the looming black clouds and high winds, the untamable Ireland we came to know!

Our Friday night consisted of fresh fish and chips from a little chippery on a deserted pebble beach in Ballybunion, where we enjoyed a spectacular sunset and fell asleep to all shades of pink. Our wild camping on this beach was such a great idea that when we woke up the next morning, another 'Traveler' camper was parked up next to us!  The green hills surrounding us were all covered in wind turbines, a lovely mixed of new and old with the thin stone lanes.

Saturday: A little town called Doolin was our next port, which was 5km from the famous Cliffs of Moher. Before we reached our campsite by the waterfront, we had Smurfy board another car ferry - a smaller kind to take us the quick way across from Tarbert to Killimer for 18 pounds. We managed to find the scenic loop from Killkee and drove around the less popular cliffs, which didn't have a person in sight. The cold blue Atlantic below felt as if it was at war with cliffs. The west coast was ragged and raw, the wild side of Ireland.
 
After a few steep one lane roads down to the campsite, we enjoyed a spot of sun - before the rain begun for the first time on our trip! we headed to the only pub in Doolin, for some seafood chowder and lamb stew accompanied by live local music and a few Guinness. We had a bit of wander through paddocks after, to much dismay of the local cows - they are quite scary when they watch you! The walk took us along the coastline and finished up in the tiny port, where ferries leave for Aran Islands daily. The rock formations were almost alien like but fantastic to explore when the tide was out. Wouldn't want to get caught on Tom's rock when the water came back to claim its land.
 
Sunday:  Oysters for lunch at Morgan's restaurant was a must before heading for the musical city of Galway. After setting up Smurfy in Salthill - plugged her in, red bucket under her water outs, a cup of coffee, we then biked into the city for a nosey around. After listening to some great local music in a drinking (no food here) pub on the main street, we popped around the corner to enjoy, yes another lot of fish and chips at Kettle of Fish. The heavens then decided to open up, big fat rain for about an hour bucketed down before we biked back in fine weather!

Monday: Was always going to be a mission to make it back to Dublin and catch the ferry to Holyhead in Wales, we had a 50/50 chance of making it to the right ferry terminal - North or South?  We ended up missing our ferry. After a sting later we were on another ferry enjoying free WIFI - the mod cons! 

The journey continues in Wales...

G 
Smithwick with a silent W. The beer before Kilkenny Stout

Smithwick with a silent W. The beer before Kilkenny Stout

Where is Smurfy?

Where is Smurfy?

Another Smithwick? reward for all that uphill cycling

Another Smithwick? reward for all that uphill cycling

The dramatic Ross Castle

The dramatic Ross Castle

Who is that?

Who is that?